Wine Regions Series: Washington State - Napa Valley Life Magazine (2024)

Apeek into Washington State wine’s inner workings reveals an industry of inclusion, where everyone is welcome and where anything is possible. The State’s 1000+ wineries and 400+ vineyards (within eight defined wine-touring territories and 20 AVAs) are led by those who know no bounds: dreamers, philosophers, bohemians, and mavericks, each of whom is making a celebrated mark within the nation’s second-largest wine-producing State. And with production at about 17 million cases, the nation and world are finally noticing.

Since 1986, the Northwest Wine Coalition (comprised of the Washington State Wine Commission, Oregon Wine Board, and Idaho Wine Commission) has marketed the region’s wines internationally; Washington wineries export their product to more than 74 countries. Yet, many of the State’s vintners and winemakers will tell you of the blank stares received when they speak of Washington wine. “People will say, ‘I didn’t know they made wine in D.C!’” laughed Matt Rawn of Yakima Valley’s Two Mountain Winery, where he makes estate-grown, certified sustainable varietals. “There has definitely been an education process, but the tide is turning.”

“We fully know that most in the United States have no idea that wine grapes are even grown in Washington,” said Kelsey Albro Itämeri of Walla Walla’s itä wines, which have garnered multiple 90+ point ratings from respected wine publications. “Our vibe out here is low key but delicious. We Washingtonians are not fancy people. Around here, you know someone is rich because they have a nicer raincoat than you, not because they’re driving a Lambo. But we still like nice things, and we make nice things, and one of those nice things is our amazing wine.”

One of the reasons for past and ongoing anonymity could be that Washington is not defined by a particular varietal. It’s natural to think “Cabernet Sauvignon” when Napa Valley comes to mind or “Pinot Noir” when Oregon is mentioned. However, with more than 80 grape varietals planted throughout the state, Washington has eluded classification. And that is what is so exciting and why the region is so open to innovation. While, like in many other wine-growing regions, Cabernet is king in Washington, followed by Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, and Syrah (which together make up more than 80% of production annually), winegrowers are encouraging Alicante Bouschet, Cinsault, Carignan, Graciano, Lemberger, Tinto Cao and other more obscure varietals, many of which often make some of the State’s most compelling wines.

The State’s differing conditions in its varied regions allow for such variety. And you’ll hear vintners, growers, and winemakers here mention “the Missoula Floods” repeatedly, as if this natural geological occurrence happened last week, rather than 15,000 years ago; it’s integral to their success. In a nutshell, soils of fine sand, silt, and gravel, in varying layers of thickness on top of basalt bedrock, are the result of flooding created by a giant ice sheet that blocked the North Fork of the Clark River in Idaho, creating a 1,200-foot high dam that eventually broke. These soils have low water holding capacity and are ideal for the irrigated viticulture, one of the bedrocks of grape growing in eastern Washington, where most of the State’s grapes emanate. Not to mention that Washington state shares the same “sweet spot” latitude as other famous European wine regions (Burgundy and the Rhone Valley), receiving ample sunlight during the growing season.

“Washington is definitely a unique wine-producing region,” said Alex Stewart, head winemaker at Matthews, a family-owned and operated winery based in Woodinville. “And relative to other regions of the world, Washington is still in its infancy. We are geographically and climatically diverse, and peoplearen’t afraid to explorethe far reaches in the name of quality and distinction. There is a feeling of manifest destiny here, where we are finding remarkable locations in which toplantfruit and, in turn, produce diverse wines that transcend style andtypicity.”

But ask Washington’s vintners and winemakers what makes their State a special place to work, and most point to the industry camaraderie. “What sets us apart in Washington is that everyone has bought into the devotion to one another and their success,” added Stewart. “There is a feeling that we are all in this together for the betterment of the land and the wine. There is a neighborly friendship we all share to help and advocate for one another.”

“There is a shared sense of acceptance, support, and approachability here,” said Andrew Gerow Co-owner/Winemaker at Tirriddis, a newer, traditional method sparkling producer out of the Yakima Valley. Gerow started the company with two fellow Washington State University pals upon graduation from the viticulture and enology program. “Ourcommunity respects hard work, ambition, kindness, and passion far more than money or clout. It’s one of the only places in the world where someone with little to no connections or resources can enter the wine industry at such a high level through sheer ambition and hard work.”

What to Do:

Walla Walla is a great place to start a Washington wine tour. The college town is recognized as the unofficial capital of Washington wine country. It is home to more than 130 wineries, many of which feature tasting rooms lining vibrant Main St. It also boasts a hip culinary scene. Check out Spring Valley Vineyard in town, where Kate Derby follows in her family’s footsteps in crafting classic Walla Walla Valley wines, which she names in homage to her ancestors. Derby’s grandparents founded the winery 30 years ago, where she spent summers playing in the vineyards. //www.springvalleyvineyard.com

Just outside town, visit Figgins Family Wine Estate to tour its new, state-of-the-art barrel caves and taste its Bordeaux-style estate wines. Naturally air-conditioned, the caves are 35 feet beneath the vineyard and comprise 15 million-year-old fractured basalt. //www.figginswine.com

Next door to Figgins, in the foothills of the Blue Mountains, is Echolands Estate, which has a stunning, sparkling new visitor center with floor-to-ceiling windows and spectacular views. // www.echolandswinery.com

End your Walla Walla tour at Abeja for a triple win of beautiful wines, destination cuisine, and graciously charming overnight accommodations. //www.abeja.net

Head west to premiere growing region Red Mountain. The sunny, southwest-facing slopes of this AVA create some of the State’s most celebrated wines, such as those from WeatherEye, where vineyard manager Ryan Johnson oversees one of the most unique vineyard projects in the State. He and his team farm the vineyard as a collection of “micro-blocks,” designed and managed in a spectrum of densities and trellising methods matched to soils, topography, and exposures of the site. //www.weathereyevineyard.com

Visit Frichette, a small, family-owned winery and vineyard known for stellar hospitality, beautiful views, and premium wines, and hope that charismatic owner Shae Frichette is in the house. //frichettewinery.com

At family-owned Kiona Vineyard & Winery, JJ Williams oversees the vineyards his grandparents cultivated forty years ago as Red Mountain pioneers. Nearly 60 different Washington wineries purchase grapes from Kiona, illustrative of the quality. So it’s no surprise that Kiona’s bottlings are stellar. //www.kionawine.com

It’s a family affair at Domaine Magdalena where Maggie Hedges crafts superlative Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, while husband Christophe and his sister Sarah Goedhart oversee their family’s neighboring Hedges Family Estate, established in 1987 and now one of the most respected and distributed wineries in Washington. Enjoy al fresco winetasting on the Hedges Chateau’s terrace. //www.hedgesfamilyestate.com

Head to the Yakima Valley for sparkling wine at Treveri Cellars. Gracious hospitality includes a beautiful location and panoramic views. Try the unique sparkling wine co*cktails, like the Tequila Tevejito: fresh mint, lime, and simple syrup muddled with tequila and Riesling. // www.trevericellars.com

Northwest in Woodinville, 130 wineries are arrayed within four distinct districts. Get your bearings with a stay at Willows Lodge, with its wine-cask front doors hinting at its heart-of-wine country location. Rustic yet refined, the Doug Fir timbered construction conveys a sense of Northwest place. Its intimate spa is the perfect spot to unwind after a day of wine tasting. //www.willowslodge.com

Make sure to enjoy a meal at adjacent Barking Frog, where executive chef Dylan Herrick collaborates with local farmers, food artisans, and foragers to craft his seasonal menus. The wine list is excellent. // www.willowslodge.com/barking-frog

Sample Alex Stewart’s winemaking mastery at The Matthews & Jaine Tasting Room + Farm. Stewart’s fellow winemaker is Hal Iverson, and the duo has proudly released its first Matthews wines, including 2021 Columbia Valley Cuvée, Claret, Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2022 Columbia Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Here, guests can also sample umbrella brandAvallé’s elegant Jaine whites. //www.matthewswinery.com

An additional Avallélabel, Tenor, features very limited, single-varietal wines, also made by Stewart and Iverson and available to taste at Tenor Winemaking Studio. //www.tenorwines.com

And in Seattle, check-out SoDo Urban Works in the former industrial district for its collection of food and wine crafters. Cairdeas Winery from the Lake Chelan Valley region has a tasting room here where they serve their delicious Rhone varietals. //www.cairdeaswinery.com